Gougères

Heat the oven to 400°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment.

Combine the water (120 ml½ cup), milk (120 ml½ cup), butter (115 g1 stick), salt (1 tsp), pepper (¼ tsp) and cayenne in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a rolling boil; the butter must be fully melted before it boils.

Take the pan off the heat and add the flour (140 g1 cup + 2 tbsp) all at once. Stir hard with a wooden spoon or spatula until the mixture forms a smooth ball and pulls from the sides of the pan. Return to medium heat and stir constantly for 2 minutes to cook out the raw flour taste; a thin film will form on the bottom of the pan.

Transfer to a stand mixer with the paddle. Beat on medium for 1 to 2 minutes to release steam and cool the dough slightly. It should be warm but not hot, or the eggs will scramble.

With the mixer on medium, add the beaten eggs (4) gradually, about 2 tablespoons at a time, beating well after each addition. The batter should end up smooth and glossy and hold a stiff V when you lift the paddle. You may not need every drop of egg; stop when the consistency is right.

Fold in the Gruyère (115 g1 cup) by hand with a spatula.

Pipe or scoop mounds of about 1 tbsp each, the size of a walnut, onto the sheets, 2 inches apart. Sprinkle a pinch of the Gruyère (30 g) on each.

Bake at 400°F for 10 minutes, then reduce to 350°F and bake 15 to 20 minutes more, until deeply golden, puffed, and firm at the sides when tapped. Don't open the oven during the first 20 minutes or they collapse.

Turn the oven off, crack the door, and let the gougères dry in the cooling oven for 5 minutes, which keeps them from deflating.

Serve warm. They are best within an hour, and re-crisp in 5 minutes at 350°F.